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Another new old car topic.. |
Edgar Reynaldo
Major Reynaldo
May 2007
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Arthur Kalliokoski said: If it's a manual transmission, and the battery still has enough power to run the computers and fuel pump, you could probably turn the ignition on, push it as fast as you can by pushing your shoulder against the open driver door frame (while steering) then jumping in, pushing in the clutch, putting it in second gear, and LET UP THE CLUTCH VERY QUICKLY so you don't just slow the car using the clutch for a brake.
Yay for push starts! I used to drive a VW Scirocco and I had to do that shit all the time. My Website! | EAGLE GUI Library Demos | My Deviant Art Gallery | Spiraloid Preview | A4 FontMaker | Skyline! (Missile Defense) Eagle and Allegro 5 binaries | Older Allegro 4 and 5 binaries | Allegro 5 compile guide |
jhuuskon
Member #302
April 2000
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Starting a diesel demands a whole lotta juice. Especially cold starting (as in engine is at ambient temperature, below operating temperature, not necessarily in sub-zero temperatures). First, for a cold engine, you need to glow it. The glow plugs are pretty much just electrical heaters inside the cylinders and starting a cold diesel without working glow plugs is impossible below +10C or so. Then you crank it. The compression is higher so the engine resists cranking more. Starters are much sturdier on diesels than gasoline engines of comparable size. What you do (and how i've jumpstarted a lot of very modern diesels as well, including a Volkswagen Passat with a fully electronic DSG gearbox) is to drive the car with good battery close, attach the jumper cables to the dead battery, then the positive cable to the donor car and lastly the negative one. Then turn off lights and unnecessary electrical gadgets in both cars and rev up the donor car to around 3k rpm. Keep it revving for about(i use as a rule of thumb a cigarette's duration) 5 mins or so. Still keep the revs up in the donor car (i suppose you by now realise that in this, 'you' is a plural), start the car. Now don't let the engine stall for the next 15 minutes. Let it idle or drive around (i suppose you shouldn't be driving with the lights off though, depends on local law), but keep it running. You don't deserve my sig. |
type568
Member #8,381
March 2007
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It is done, with a donor car.. After doing it I read in the manual of my car how to do it, we did let an error.. The minus of the plug should be attached to chassis of the car away from my dead batt. I didn't get it either anywhere, or somewhere specifically. But it's rather logical, so that my half dead batt sucks less power.. We also tried to start immediately, which didn't work.. Then I insisted on waiting for some 5 min and it started.. Then I drove around for some 30-40 minutes, while on a hill- checked that it can start itself easily, and drove home. Hopefully tomorrow it starts, and if it does- then further starts should be of no problem as batt will only charge more & more. Sadly I only have one key of my car, and I couldn't leave the engine running while I'm away for an hour or more. Scary to leave the car open & running while I'm not nearby..
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Arthur Kalliokoski
Second in Command
February 2005
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type568 said: I read in the manual of my car how to do it, we did let an error.. The minus of the plug should be attached to chassis of the car away from my dead batt. The reason they say that is because when you hook up the final connection, the difference in voltage could throw a spark, however tiny, that could ignite hydrogen gas (generated by electrolysis) escaping from the battery, causing it to explode and possibly splash acid in your eyes. They all watch too much MSNBC... they get ideas. |
type568
Member #8,381
March 2007
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Hmm, then we did all correctly..
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Arthur Kalliokoski
Second in Command
February 2005
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It's still called a battery, supposedly because the original series of acid filled cups reminded the inventors of a battering ram cannon thingee with several barrels. If the dead battery is soaking up so much charge that the engine won't start immediately, it's OK, the "wasted" electricity is just charging the dead battery after all. Like I said before, you can damage computerized engine components by attaching/detaching stuff while it's running. Also, you don't want to let a car charge a totally dead battery by itself if you can help it, they've made alternators too wimpy to put out a full load for very long without overheating nowadays. They all watch too much MSNBC... they get ideas. |
type568
Member #8,381
March 2007
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A'right, it's an epic fail. After driving for some 30 minutes, part of the time on purpose on high-rpm, after some 8 hours- it doesn't start.
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Arthur Kalliokoski
Second in Command
February 2005
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If the battery will start the car after 30 minutes of charging, but not after sitting 8 hours, there are two possibilities. One is that something in the car is still on and draining the juice, you can tell by removing the battery cable after shutting the car off, then the battery can't go dead while it sits. The other possibility is that the battery is so old, particles that have flaked off the plates inside have gotten so deep at the bottom of the battery they're shorting out the plates from the bottom, in that case you'll need a new battery. They all watch too much MSNBC... they get ideas. |
type568
Member #8,381
March 2007
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It also could be starting a warm engine is easier. I was suggested to charge the battery at home, though I'll need a charger for it.. Append: {"name":"605194","src":"\/\/djungxnpq2nug.cloudfront.net\/image\/cache\/8\/c\/8c2f1614ddb547ddea4770400f259527.jpg","w":1944,"h":2592,"tn":"\/\/djungxnpq2nug.cloudfront.net\/image\/cache\/8\/c\/8c2f1614ddb547ddea4770400f259527"}
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